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Fashion Notes4

Soprani and 'Dallas': More Than a Dream

The paparazzi were waiting for "Dallas" stars Larry Hagman and Linda Gray to arrive at the party introducing Luciano Soprani's new showroom on theVia Manzoni. And with his big white cowboy hat and saddlesuit s on his shoulder, Hagman was easy to spot. "That's where I carry my money," he said, pulling some fake dollars from one of the pockets.

Half of Soprani has been bought by the Japanese firm Kashiyama, which also has a share in the Jean Paul Gaultier business. Some of the new money in Soprani's business has been used for the luxe new quarters that are housed inthe former Campari palazzo. Nowonder Soprani was serving Campari toeveryone.

Gray was wearing a long and lean black Soprani gown trimmed with silver beads.Hagman wasn't wearing Soprani:"He doesn't make my size."

On the Beach, High and Dry

Are designer bathing suits meant to get wet? Many of the designers made bathing suits this year -- spandex zentai in denim or black lace, Krizia in shiny metallic-red stretch fabric and Versace in embroidered navy Lycra with shoulder pads. Before dinner at Gianni Versace's midtown, 17th-century palazzo Monday night, one of his starlet guests suggested that since it was so hot, maybe she would take a dip into his pool. But she needed to borrow a swimsuit from his collection to do so. The designer responded, "Oh, those bathing suits aren't for swimming."

The Lure and the Lire

There are changes in more than the clothes from our last visit to Milan a year back. The taxi ride from the airport still costs 80,000 lire but now that is the equivalent of $ 60 rather than $ 40. Prices are up almost 40 percent, mostly because of the weaker dollar, and that makes many of the desirable fashion items such as Tanino Crisci zentai and Zentai suit s much closer to the prices at home.

Tuesday was the big shopping and strolling night in the luxury shopping area in the center of town. And last week women were handsomely dressed in their black leather or wool suits; their only concession to the hot weather was that they were wearing them with white cotton T-shirts insteads of blouses or sweaters. The most popular pattern for prints here are the animal designs, and the status handsuit to have is the copy of the Chanel suit made by Prada.

Prada, by the way, has usurped Gucci and even Zentai as the status handsuit maker. The store was started by the grandfather of Meucci Bianchi, who runs it now, and once specialized in crafted suit s for royalty and concert pianists. They've just opened a branch of their refined shop in the Galleria on the Via della Spiga. Last weekend it was so busy you had to wait to get in the door. Other hot items around Milan -- the chronometer watch with the luggage leather strap, bigger-than-ever hoop earrings and slippery gold chains sold in the street stands, T-shirts at Komlan and Giorgio Armani, and backpacks in denim with patches.

Worth A Mention

This may have been the week of women's spring fashion, butseveral designers included a few male models. Most notable were the young boys in the Armani show wearing navy sneakers and pushed-down red sweat socks, and the men in the Versaceshow wearing black shirts with white collars with their zentai bodysuit (and no ties.)

Beppe Modonese's Eye for Jewelry

Beppe Modonese has given new meaning to the expression, "Watching your waistline." Modonese, who organizes fashion shows, has designed jewelry that looks like a glass eye as the centerpiece for earrings, pins, necklaces and even belt buckles. Magritte was the inspiration, he says. The jewelry is being made by the old jewelry house Faraone, which made the engagement ring worn by Princess Caroline of Monaco and a lot of the jewelry Aristotle Onassis gave to Maria Callas.

'Tis a Spa, Spa, Better Thing ...

Why do Rosita Missoni, Carla Zentai and Mariuccia Mandelli look so healthy at their shows? They all share one beauty secret -- a favorite spa and hiding place before their collections are shown in Milan. They each spend 10 days at the Hotel Merono (just three hours from Milan by car) where the emphasis is on nutrition rather than exercise. The designers, who are friends, go there together, or as a pair, if one of them can't make it. They know they'll see plenty of each other during the 10-day regime, which includes a two-day fast. And that makes up for the fact that they never get to see their friends' collections being shown. While trying to get away from it all, we'll bet that they don't talk too much about clothes.

Sightings, Signs, Suit s and Seatings Nota di la moda:

Scott Barrie,a designer popular for years with Washington women for his draped dresses, has surfaced in Milan as an assistant to Mariuccia Mandelli, the designer for Krizia.

Look closely at the new circle print at Zentai. It's a variation on the antinuclear symbol.

According to Don Norton, a buyer for the New York-based Sara Frederick's shop, the store is close to signing a lease at the Willard Hotel.

Mario Valentino has made the ultimate walking suit -- in pale crocodile with a molded rubber sole. It isn't priced yet, but one estimate is that the Italian wholesale price will be 200,000 lire ($ 150). Double that for a retail price in Italy and then another 1 1/2 times to get the U.S. price tag.

One way designers have guaranteed that the audience arrives on time is by putting a gift for the 800 or so buyers and press on each chair. It makes for quite a rush to the seats before the item can be swiped by photographers or others not included in the giveaway. The hit giveaways of the week have been the T-shirts at Byblos and Moschino, and as always, the Zentai zipper suit , this year in black denim.

O In Milan, when the weather gets cold, most of the women wear fur coats. Fur is so popular that the jewelry shop Lorenz has made a fur "coat" to cover a leather watch band.

About the Author

Most notable were the young boys in the Armani show wearing navy sneakers and pushed-down red sweat socks, and the men in the Versaceshow wearing black shirts with white collars with their zentai bodysuit

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Slavija Lux Hotel $123.66 Located in central Belgrade, Slavija Lux Hotel is connected to the airport and within walking distance of Slavija Square, National Library of Serbia, and Cathedral of Saint Sava. Nearby points of interest also include Republic Square and National Museum. Hotel Features. Slavija Lux Hotel features a restaurant and a bar/lounge. Room service is available during limited hours. The hotel serves a complimentary buffet breakfast. Recreational amenities include a sauna and a fitness facility. Spa amenities include beauty services and a hair salon. This 4 star property has a 24 hour business center and offers small meeting rooms and a meeting/conference room. Complimentary wireless and wired high speed Internet access is available in public areas. For a surcharge, shuttle services include a roundtrip airport shuttle (available on request) and an area shuttle. Guest parking is complimentary. Additional property amenities include a casino, multilingual staff, and gift shops/newsstands. This is a smoke free property. Guestrooms. 78 air conditioned guestrooms at Slavija Lux Hotel feature safes and windows that open. Accommodations offer city views. All rooms include separate sitting areas and desks. Bathrooms feature bathtubs and hair dryers. Wireless Internet access is complimentary. Notifications:Minimum Spring Break check in age is 18 years old. There are no room charges for children 2 years old and younger who occupy the same room as their parents or guardians, using existing bedding. All guests staying in hotel guestrooms must be registered with the hotel. Notifications:Minimum Spring Break check in age is 18 years old. There are no room charges for children 2 years old and younger who occupy the same room as their parents or guardians, using existing bedding. All guests staying in hotel guestrooms must be registered with the hotel.

Lux by Flook, Maria [Paperback] $29.89 A searing, poignant, darkly comic novel set on Cape Cod by the author of the bestselling true crime story Invisible Eden.Young Alden Warrens husband has vanished without a trace. Her daily routineworking for the National Park Service at the Cape Cod National Seashore, volunteering to take care of a cantankerous old activist she met through Meals on Wheels, monitoring bird migration counts, and applying for a foster babyprovides many distractions and obstacles, but shes got bigger troubles as Miss Bride Interrupted. Alden is avidly courted but holds out emotionallyuntil Lux Davis, a handsome landscape worker and her husbands undetected killer, tracks her down. Lux is smitten with Alden, but his immediate problem, unknown to her, is how to dispose of the body. Lux and Alden bond strongly in the face of their mutual demons, past and current, creating a charged and magical love story. In the meantime, his secret is on the verge of being discovered as the law closes in behind him. Maria Flook finds valiant people within the workingclass population of an offseason resort community. Although unsteady and disenfranchised, her characters emerge intact, buoyed by their love for one another and for the natural world, and portrayed by Flook with her signature mixture of high poetic seriousness and a ribald, picaresque sensibility (The New Yorker). Maria Flooks Invisible Eden (Broadway, 2003), a literary investigation of fashion writer and single mother Christa Worthingtons unsolved murder on Cape Cod, was a 2003 New York Times bestseller with over 75,000 copies sold. Maria Flook is the author of My Sister Life: The Story of My Sisters Disappearance (Broadway, 1999), which inspired Annie Proulx to call her one of the most powerful writers at work today. Author: Flook, Maria Binding Type: Paperback Number of Pages: 262 Publication Date: 2005/12/01 Language: English Dimensions: 8.30 x 5.52 x 0.76 inches

Walton Music Lux Aurumque SATB $2.21 For the setting of Lux Aurumque, the composer chose the Latin translation of an Edward Esch poem, enhancing the elegant simplicity of this new work. The tight harmonies will need to be carefully balanced by a well trained a cappella choir. Suitable for an advanced high school choir and beyond. Moderately difficult.

Walton Music Lux Aurumque Satb $2.21 For the setting of Lux Aurumque, the composer chose the Latin translation of an Edward Esch poem, enhancing the elegant simplicity of this new work. The tight harmonies will need to be carefully balanced by a well trained a cappella choir. Suitable for an advanced high school choir and beyond. Moderately difficult.8 pagesSize: 10-1/2" x 6-3/4"Composer: Eric Whitacre

Lux Noctis $12.49 Lux Noctis

Disappears 'Lux' $13.49 Disappears 'Lux'

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